Bartolo Mascarello

Even the name evokes masculinity – Bartolo Mascarello – so much that the author feels almost that it should be typed in all caps. And yes, the late Bartolo made a name for his small winery by making unapologetically traditional Barolos, bristling with Nebbiolo’s signature tannins and packed with the depth of flavor only the enviable holdings of the Mascarellos can achieve. But the Bartolo Mascarello wines of the modern era – since 2005 in whole, and since 1993 in part – have been made by a woman, Maria Teresa Mascarello, who despite her warm smile is as determined and uncompromising as her father.

It might be tempting for a salesperson or critic to wax eloquent about the tempering influence of a female winemaker’s hand, citing more eloquence in the Cantina’s modern efforts. But that would be missing just what makes this story beautiful. The wines have not been tempered. They are the same brilliant, hard, self-contained masterpieces they were under Bartolo – orange-red diamonds, sharp and unyielding, yet mesmerizing.

Our readers are probably familiar with the vineyards that make up the blend in the Mascarello Barolo – Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rué, Rocche. But like her father, Maria Teresa makes only a blend of the four. Her father’s now-famous words still seem to ring in the cellars – “I don’t make wines with fantasy names. I don’t make crus, I don’t make wine in barriques, my wines don’t have perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. I’m the last of the Mohicans.” We can only be thankful that Bartolo was not the last, and perhaps curious if he was even the best of his own name. As we are sure he would find fitting, time will be the judge.

A few highlights from the collection below:

Dolcetto d’Alba 2021 (JR 17.5) – 6/750ml – $134/btl

Barbera d’Alba 2020 (JR 17+) – 6/750ml – $185.85/btl

Barolo 2018 (WE97, RP96, JR17.5) – 1/1500ml – $1294/btl

Barolo 2016 (RP100, D99, WE99, JR18) – 3/750ml – $1764/btl

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